Beiträge von kwakster

    Just today my hydrogen generator came in, and i intend to update this thread with my findings later on.
    Good or bad, if any.


    "What you need to know about hydrogen" interview with Japanese PH.D Shigeo Ohta on YouTube:


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cAgvBzjxG9E


    Medical articles about the general use of hydrogen in humans:


    https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7495244/


    https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5806445/


    The potential utilizations of hydrogen as a promising therapeutic strategy against ocular diseases (having various eye ailments this is what i'm particularly interested in):


    https://www.dovepress.com/the-…wed-fulltext-article-TCRM

    Specifically for scandi grinds on Mora's etc i designed and had this made a while back.
    I call it a "limiter block", as it limits your range of movements while sharpening guided on the Tormek to only back & forth and up & down (for the point area)
    The block can slide along the steel guide rod, and with the screws i can finetune the clamping force.


    The knife is my Mora 2000 which i bought in Sweden in 2006, and which was used as a testbed for various edges, once even with a few serrations just in front of the handle.
    I reground it several years ago using the limiter block, then removed the slight burr on the Tormek leather wheel for a slightly convex microbevel.
    It has been living in my daypack ever since, and the apex has already been refreshed several times on a Spyderco white ceramic stick (when on holiday)










    Tested the newly convexed edge with an apex @ ~22.5 degrees inclusive on an old piece of beechwood cutting board.
    Got quite a bit of microchipping at the very apex but no rippling.
    The steel might indeed be D2 with an estimated hardness at or slightly above 60 HRC.






    Removed all damage by filing the edge flat with a small diamond file, then resharpened to a new apex angle between 22,5 and 25 degrees inclusive.
    Still have to do some new testing on the same wood.

    Daniil Vygovsky, the seller of this fake CS AD10 operated on E-Bay under the name Andros999, but it seems he is no longer active there.
    On Paypal he uses androswizard@gmail.com
    I thought i ordered from Taiwan, but the clone was dropshipped to me by the Chinese webshop Jufule (there was even a thank you letter from them in the box)

    The knife's new home-made Tri-Ad locking mechanism.
    Exchanged the old stop pin (on the right with 4.97 mm diameter) for a thicker one (on the left with 5.43 mm diameter) made from an old piece of drill bit using a drill press together with an angle grinder, gave the lockbar pivot pin a bit more wiggle room using a diamond burr, then hand fitted the various mating surfaces with a small diamond file.
    Now the lockbarhead wedges itself securely between stop pin and lockbar cutout hook in the blade (with room for wear), and there is zero blade play.
    When life gives you lemons make lemonade.






    Short story: a while ago i ordered what i thought would be an original CS AD10 from an E-Bay seller, who specifically stated in the ad that the knife was the real deal and no fake.
    What i received however was an AD10 clone.
    Opened a Paypal dispute, sent the knife back to the seller, then got informed by Paypal that i lost the dispute because the knife never reached the seller.
    Almost had forgotten all about it when the clone was returned to me by the postal service, as it had been undeliverable.
    Since i was apparently stuck with the thing i decided to make it into a project knife.
    Convexed the edge, gave it a wave function, and changed the backlock mechanism into a tri-ad lock mechanism.







    фото


    Abercrombie & Fitch, New York, 1912
    In the center of the photo is a ski-lift chair and a display rack with ski apparati hanging from it.
    Also, there are skis and snow shoes to the right and left of the ski lift chair, repectively and men conducting transactions at the far left and center of photo.







    Abercrombie & Fitch, New York, 1913
    Sporting Goods, Interiors of Salesroom with Customers.



    Abercrombie & Fitch, New York, 1915, Madison Avenue and 45th Street.



    Abercrombie and Fitch store, New York, ca.1910, 44th Street and Madison Avenue

    The links below lead to several downloadable PDF's of old Abercrombie and Fitch catalogs on the website of Pennsylvania's Electronic library.


    A&F 1909 catalog: http://digitalcollections.powe…/pcalo-amc/id/11835/rec/4


    A&F 1913 catalog: http://digitalcollections.powe…n/pcalo-amc/id/7845/rec/4


    A&F 1915 catalog: http://digitalcollections.powe…n/pcalo-amc/id/8248/rec/1


    A&F 1916 catalog: https://archive.org/details/abercrombiefitch00aber


    A&F 1916 Christmas catalog: https://archive.org/details/abercrombiefitch00aber_0


    A&F 1950 catalog: http://digitalcollections.powe…n/pcalo-amc/id/8079/rec/5


    Background info about the company: https://www.acontinuouslean.co…bering-abercrombie-fitch/

    This is my second machine, a model 128 in a treadle, dating from 1925.
    We found it standing on the pavement in front of the home of an older lady, who was going to a smaller apartment and wanted to get rid of it.
    She still remembered her grandmother working with it back in the 1930's, but her mother and she had only kept it all these years for home decoration.
    For 15 Euro we could take it with us :)


    Sadly a few rainy days and nights outside had damaged the wooden table and case somewhat, but the machine itself was still unharmed as it had been covered by the wooden case.
    After i sanded the table i liked the wood grain so much (i think it may be red cedar) that i only treated it with several layers of a good quality mineral oil, and the drawers which normally hang under the table will get the same treatment.
    The machine has been cleaned and oiled, it has been fitted with a new rubber wheel for it's bobbin winder, and a new leather belt that connects the treadle with the machine is on it's way. (E-Bay)
    The treadle mechanism itself already ran smooth & silently on it's ball bearings, but i gave those a few drops of 5 weight Nano-Oil anyway.





    Currently learning to work a bit with an old Singer VS3 hand sewing machine made in 1890.
    When new a machine like this would cost you about a month's wages, but nowadays these can be bought for only a handful of euro's.
    I paid 10 Euro for mine, and there are literally dozens more where this one came from for similar prices.


    These high quality machines were made well before the era of planned obsolescence, and are basically indestructible.
    The inner workings on this one were covered in a shiny brown veneer that once used to be whale oil, but once that was removed and replaced by a few drops of 5 weight Nano-Oil here and there the machine works almost like new again.
    Also disassembled the wiggly wood parts to remove the remnants of the dried out bone glue, and then reglued everything with a good quality waterproof wood glue.
    Very useful if you want to take the machine with you to use in places without power sockets.


    The machine uses 15x1 size needles and easily stitches two parts of an old leather belt together (total leather thickness ~7,35 mm), so it just might work to make a simple leather knife sheath now and then (if i don't use overly thick leather)
    Also does very well for jeans, t-shirts, bed linen, etc.












    Also found this wonderful 1934 documentary about the manufacturing processes involved in making a Singer sewing machine at Clydebank, Glasgow, from its raw form of iron to the finished product packed and ready for export.
    Sadly without sound, but well worth it (if you like these kind of things)


    https://movingimage.nls.uk/film/1592














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    Just used my last Buck 110 blade on an old & worn Buck 560 from a friend of mine.
    Had to use the old backspring as i'm all out of new ones, but luckily i still had a new blade, a pivot pin, and a bronze bushing.
    The new pivot pin wasn't riveted with a hammer, but pressed using a vise and a little home made tool.
    Pressing lessens the chances of damaging the handle plus it allows for a more precise tightening of the pivot, in this case to a 99.99 % bladeplay-free action.






    For people using diamond compounds on Paper Wheels like i do; give Nano-Oil 5 weight a try.
    I have been using this oil exclusively for quite a few years now, and so far it's the best i've come across.
    It remains speculation if that is because of the special "fullerene" additives or something else entirely, but it seems to make the diamond particles cut cleaner than anything else i've experimented with.
    Certain steels like ZDP-189 and S35VN come off the 15 micron diamond compound wheel completely burr-free and ready to use, which is something i've never been able to do with any other oil type.

    I think you did a great job already, especially considering how it looked before.
    Imo this knife would make a perfect candidate to thin the primary grind on wet & dry SiC paper and glass into a new edge that would consist of only a microbevel.
    This would lose the ugly old bevels with as little blade width loss as possible while at the same time making the blade cut a whole lot better.

    Flockton, Tompkin & Co 2-blade small knife with MOP scales.
    Made in Sheffield and complete with original leather pocket pouch.
    The knife was bought new around 1920 in Amsterdam, and it's still in very good condition.












    Specs:


    Length opened (with larger blade): 12,1 cm
    Length opened (with smaller blade): 10,8 cm
    Length closed: 7,5 cm
    Weight: 15 grams

    The knife has already proven to be a very effective short chopper during 2019 and 2020, with it's heavy convex blade in low alloy carbon steel combined with a stick tang covered in shock dampening rubber.
    Still working on thinning the convex blade shape a hair more every now and then, slowly approaching that sweet spot where the edge bites at maximum depth while at the same time the blade doesn't get stuck during chopping, and the saw on the back works best.
    I think i'm almost there.
    Pics were taken two weeks ago in the woods surrounding my home town.